Semi-fast or semi-slow?

A major axis of interpreting different kitchens connects the poles of fast and slow. The Tartar lies squat in the middle of the axis. Those who prefer to take their time over their food are comfortable spending long hours and take an interest in the newest creations of the fine dining chef Dmitri Zhuk and the owner, Andrei Shmakov, whose restaurants in Estonia and now in Moscow top various charts. Those in a hurry, however, can pick their poison from the submenu of tartares and smørrebrøds. In the former case, the chefs’ fantasy appears limitless. The sourness of the duck borsch is emphasised by rhubarb, which is in turn balanced out by the sweetish chicken liver pâté served with the soup on thin slices of white bread. And even the impatient eat well. The beef tartare is matched with a creamy horseradish spread rather than butter and complemented by capers and pickles. The ensemble is garnished with fried potato floss. Whether to go fast or go slow is up to the eater, but passing by this restaurant in one of the highest-traffic spots in Tallinn would be a mistake.