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Not Just a Side Job

The Ö has enjoyed its fame as one of Estonia’s top restaurants for over a decade, having also earned the title of the very best. The Kaks Kokka – Two Chefs – is the Ö’s little sister. The concept of having an eating spot next to renowned, high-grade restaurants, offering simple food which is often prepared in the same kitchen as the famous restaurant, is spreading, and this one is a good example. It is hard to access, though. True, the official address on Mere Puiestee houses the Ö, but the Kaks Kokka can be accessed by circling around the building into the courtyard. This trouble is well worth taking, though. Right at the entrance, jars with assorted garden produce are quietly fermenting away on shelves. They are there for more than just the show. The Kaks Kokka is doing remarkable work in adding value to local roots and vegetables and collaborates closely with a variety of small producers and growers. Therefore, too, the menu features some altogether unique dishes. One of these is BBQ free-range chicken. The Kaks Kokka serves it with a large wedge of grilled cabbage and a generous helping of ramson-laced mashed potatoes. The chicken has been low-cooked and painted with seafood ink before being finished on grill. Whoever comes here often notices that the restaurant has an enviable number of frequent customers – the same faces every week. And the reason is likely to be the same: the restaurant serves food that stands out as special.