Right by the Waves

The Grand Holm Marina at the historical Haapsalu marina lives up to the ambition inherent in the name. This is one of the most beautiful yacht harbours in Estonia. In summer, the tables at the restaurant are so very close to the water that you could nearly dip your toes in the lazy waves at the pier. The dishes and especially the drinks measure up to the picaresque milieu. Paap Pihelgas is one of the best Estonian baristas; just coming for a coffee is well worth the trouble. The menu offers a frequently changing selection of small roasters’ beans. But those who come for coffee tend to stay for the rest. A glass of homemade lemonade or a cocktail heavy on intriguing house-made ingredients, and you find yourself asking for the menu. Baltic herring, the most common fish of the local seas, has always been a mainstay of the menu: in different guises, but always interesting and flavourful. Visits to the Grand Holm Marina often run backwards like this: first the coffee, then the food, and always the sea lapping at the pier.