38

Olevimägi 9, Tallinn, Eesti

High level

How we evaluate?
77/31

38

Olevimägi 9, Tallinn, Eesti

High level

How we evaluate?
77/31

Legendary location

Olevimägi 9, Tallinn is a legendary address in the Estonian food scene. First, there was restaurant Bocca, then Ore. Now restaurant 38. Bocca and Ore will be remembered by anyone who has ever visited these restaurants. But 38 might trump its predecessors.

Graffiti-like extensive murals create a light-hearted mood. The amuse-bouche – foie gras and raspberry chocolate lips on a piece of bread – is like a kiss of flavour. Frivolous in form, but utterly deliberate in its intentions. And they start as they mean to go on. Sauerkraut brioche, which replaces the traditional rye bread, is brought to the table with a candle. Not to create a romantic ambience, but to butter your bread. Because the candle is made of clarified porcini butter. 

Further into the meal, they do tone it down a notch. Perhaps so that the guest can still understand that 38 is not some kind of temporary trickster but a completely serious restaurant. The latter is particularly emphasized by a drink list offering an abundance of iconic wines and author cocktails. This informal but ultimately serious mood will haunt the guest for a long time and lure them back to the restaurant sooner rather than later.

Estonian restaurant guide 2023

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This project is funded by the European Regional Development Fund: