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Purtse Brewery and Tchaikovsky. The wildly delicious East

July 20th, 2017

Purtse is the easternmost of well-known small breweries in Estonia, and it is so with pride. The rough industrial landscapes of Ida-Viru County have been the childhood playgrounds for today’s brewers and the inspiration for today’s beers. Their beers are recognisable by their distinct bottles and the names of the beers give you a taste before you even open the bottle.

Ida-Viru County has a particular aura. It is robust and industrial. A little scary, but also alluring. People over there have a certain way of life, completely differently from the rest of Estonia. Food and drink often taste very different over there and unlike anywhere else in the country.

Those who wish (and dare), try.

Tchaikovsky, on the other hand, is one of the most decorous restaurants in Tallinn. Serving Purtse’s Metsik Ida (‘Wild East’) and Šaht-Matt (‘Shaftmate’) in the courtyard of Tchaikovsky should feel like musicians and intellectuals in the fanciest neighbourhood adopting a child from the most awful slum.

Intrigue seems to be in the air, but the child does unexpectedly well in an entirely new and different environment. As it should. Because the specially finished food of Tchaikovsky and the drinks of Purtse that aim for robustness have the same roots. If there is something wild in the east that they serve together, it is wildly delicious.